Beastmaking: A fingers-first approach to becoming a better climber

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The book provides a range of ideas and methods for training for climbing. It mostly focusses on training more at the power end of the spectrum, though does contain a section on endurance training. The aesthetics of the book are great, there are inspiring shots sprinkled throughout, useful clear photos of various stretches and exercises, and clear diagrams. Text is broken up, so never feels monotonous. Admittedly, Beastmaking doesn’t scrimp on the word count but nor does it mince its words. Throughout, the message remains clear and the overriding theme is that you’ll still need to put the effort in to make any gains. Right from the Introduction, Feehally makes it clear that “the benefits of simply owning a fingerboard are fairly limited” and simply buying the book and expecting to suddenly climb harder is no different. This book does not provide details on the nitty gritty science underpinning the methods, mental aspects of training, or climbing technique. It is a focussed book, which distills the training literature, combines it with the experience of Ned and his peers, and presents an entertaining and informative guide as to how to train. At the end of the book, there are interviews with Alex Puccio, Adam Ondra, Jerry Moffat, Melissa Le Nevé, Tomoa Narasaki, Alex Megos, Alex Honnold, and Coxsey. Questions range from “What is your five-second maximum one-arm hang on the Beastmaker 2000 middle edge?” to “What is your advice for climbers who want to improve?”

One thing I missed was an in-depth discussion of periodization and strength training. Feehally does touch on some of those aspects, briefly, but not as much as some of the nerdier training enthusiasts (me) might want. To be fair, Feehally purposely left all the nerdier stuff out. When Ned Feehally started climbing in 1997—as when I started climbing in 2004—information about training was scarce. Sure, there were some scattered magazine articles and a few poorly illustrated books, but those weren’t all that easy to find outside gear stores, which, before smart phones, were themselves not all that easy to find. Fast forward two decades and there’s too much information; it’s all over the place, and it’s often contradictory, and when it comes from a truly legit source, it’s often a heinously scientific slog that only the most cerebral of training fanatics can actually stand to read.I find the lattice rung to be even kinder on the skin than the beastmaker. It is harder though (especially if, like me, you are stronger in a half crimp than a drag). An example of those views: “Personally, if I’m climbing well, that’s when I enjoy it the most. So I train a bit, get a little better, and enjoy it more.” The beastmakers are good. The 1000 is easier to warm up on and has a better selection of smallish edges. The 2000 is better for (assisted) one arm hangs and hard slopers (the 45 degree slopers are HARD).

Well, like all of Wedge’s content, it’s superbly composed and features great cinematography and charming narration. While Feehally climbs on his beautiful home wall (yeah, I said it) and flashes a V11 in the Lake District and FAs some gnarly roof choss in the Peak District, he also outlines his views about how training can fit into an everyday person’s life and make them better at climbing. Boulder Trainer is a customizable hangboard app. Choose your hangboard of choice, select a pre-programmed workout or create your own, and train your fingers into oblivion. Overall: If you're an expert, or just getting into hangboarding this app is for you! It’s extremely simple and easy to use, with a range of hangboard workouts. 27ClimbWith the 1000 and 2000 models, Beastmaker changed the face of home training; taking it away from the precious few with the space, money and dedication to build their own home wall and brought both the idea and the possibility of building finger strength away from the crag or gym to the everyday climber. Suddenly, anyone could get strong in their small bits of spare time at home and many people duly did. Alongside changes in attitude to sport climbing and bouldering, Beastmaker helped to change the game and raise the bar. New set notifications launch as soon as the route setting teams finish up for the day. Preview the set and make the most of your next session.